March 3 - 16, 2005

Lei on our bow as we head off

Leaving Honolulu was natural.  We were ready.  As we raised the mainsail and headed out the channel we had to remind ourselves not to lose the moment – this is where we have been heading for so many years.  No sadness.  Just looking forward.

We headed for Hale O Lono on Molokai thinking of resting for a few days.  The winds were on our nose, so we motor-sailed.  And we motor-sailed all the way.  Fortunately we saw a number of whales which distracted us from the incessant drone of the engine.  Whales are always a pleasure to see.


Things remained uneventful across the Kaiwi channel and until we were just off the southwestern tip of Molokai.  We suddenly experienced a vibration of the propeller, and a few minutes of checking around identified a burned out cutless bearing. We will not be able to address this until the Big Island where we will probably do a quick haul out to replace it.

Honolulu fading in the distance

Sunset in Lono Harbor

There had been a large northwest swell running for a few days, and the swells were wrapping around the tip of Molokai, and the entrance to Lono (south facing) was bumpy at best, and breaking at times.  We watched it for a while and timed our entry without incident.  Dropping the anchor as the sun slid down below the horizon was particularly sweet this night.

Our few days of rest in Lono became almost two weeks.  Although we did not plan to stay so long, the weather kept us there, and we did not object.

The northwest swell that was wrapping around the southwest tip of Molokai kept things quite bumpy in Lono. At times it was very rolly.  At times it was very windy.  At times it was very rainy. And at times it was all three at once.

We only went ashore once, and it was a nice hike. We roamed up and down the beach around the harbor. We found one pretty cove after another.  But most of the time, it was too rough to leave the boat.

Bumpy Entrance

Beautiful Secluded Beaches

Our most excitement was dragging anchor one moonless night when it was blowing horizontal rain around 25-30 knots.  That harbor just isn’t big enough for that nonsense!  Especially with two other boats in there.  But we dodged another bullet, and we got ourselves repositioned and secure enough to ride out another bumpy night.

We thoroughly enjoyed the birds in Lono.  We heard songs that were new to both of us.  Other than the birds, our only other visiting critters were occasional sea turtles.

But the swell subsided, and the winds were favorable to move on, so we headed off.  Lono was a great place to unwind and adapt to cruising mode.  We left Lono with some good memories.

Follow us to Kaunakakai, Molokai.

Time to move on